SweaterBabe.com - Knitting Tips

"Dear SweaterBabe, I have a problem with sewing my side seams. They never look professional. I am not accurate with what stitch to go in to get a thin seam. Any hints?"

Yup. Here are some hints for sewing seams to finish your knitting or crochet projects...<p>

-- If you are using non-basic yarn, i.e. something that is furry, nubby, thick and thin, has eyelashs, etc., then you might be better off using a basic yarn in a matching shade to do your sewing.

-- Another great reason to use a matching basic cotton or wool yarn to seam with is that you can undo your seams more easily if you use a different yarn. You will be able to see the seaming stitches and pull them out if need be.

-- If you are making a sweater (and are using a basic yarn that you can seam with), leave extra long tails when you cast on. Use these tails for seaming the sweater and save yourself some extra finishing time (less loose ends to weave in!).

-- Generally when seaming, you will be matching up your pieces with the front sides facing each other. It can really help to pin the pieces together (just as you would if you were sewing cloth), and line up any color stripes or patterning.

-- A back stitch is ideal for sewing solid, firm seams. To do a back stitch (these are right-handed instructions), insert your needle from FRONT TO BACK through BOTH pieces of fabric (which are held with their right sides facing each other), then insert your needle BACK TO FRONT through BOTH pieces of fabric about a half inch or so to the left. Now, your yarn and needle are in front again.

* Now, insert your needle again, BUT start about halfway to the RIGHT of where the last BACK STITCH ended, i.e. about a quarter inch to the right. Insert FRONT TO BACK, then BACK TO FRONT as before, through both pieces. Continue from * to do the back stitch along the entire seam edge.

-- To avoid overly bulky seams, try to maintain a thin seam allowance. Usually, a 1-stitch seam allowance works well. This will give you a consistent seam allowance and a secure seam. If you only have a 1/2-stitch seam allowance, the seam will not be very strong since you are only "grabbing" one strand. However, you may decide to do this is you are using VERY bulky yarn and the 1-stitch seam allowance is just too bulky.

-- When seaming, take your time and carefully watch precisely where you stick your yarn tapestry needle. I often double check that I am maintaining the exact seam allowance on EVERY single back seam stitch (but I am a perfectionist when it comes to finishing!). This does mean looking at where my needle goes in and out through the first layer and in and out through the second layer.

-- Every once in a while, flip the seam over and see what it looks like from the finished right side. If you don't like what you see, take out the back stitches you don't like redo them. I still do this, just to make my seams look professional.

-- Use good lighting and a yarn tapestry needle that is the right size for your yarn weight! If you use too sharp of a needle with certain yarns, you may end up spliting your stitches a lot and get a messy looking seam. Most tapestry needles intended for knitters have blunt tips.

-- And what I tell many beginners - don't rush! To get professional results, don't hurry. Be precise in your seaming and take as much care with your finishing as you did knitting or crocheting the project.

Hey! If you have a great tip on seaming, please email me and I will share it in future newsletters! Email me at advice@sweaterbabe.com. Thanks!

"Dear SweaterBabe, I am a new knitter and have a pattern for a bolero jacket that calls for a gauge cast on of 2.75 sts. How do you get 2.75?" -- Diana M.

Dear Diana, I'm assuming the gauge is stated as 2.75 sts per inch. My first step would be to be to figure out how many inches you can measure across to get a whole number (vs. the fraction) of stitches so you don't have to try to count partial stitches.

In this example, if you measure across 2 inches, you'll need to count 2.75 x 2 = 5.5 stitches, which is still a fraction. Across 3 inches, you would count 2.75 x 3 = 8.25 stitches, which is not easy to count. But, over 4 inches, you can count 2.75 x 4 = 11 stitches, which is much easier to do. So the gauge to aim for is 11 stitches to 4 inches.

It is more important to match gauge as closely as possible when you are making garments (vs. blankets or scarves). So if this is a bolero, I would recommend taking the time to make at least a 4 x 4" swatch to give yourself enough room to measure across 4 inches accurately.

Often, it is tempting to just cast on 1 inch of stitches (in this case 3 stitches), knit a few rows, then measure. But I STRONGLY advise against this in cases where you really want the finished measurements to come out right. It is too easy to "fudge" your measurement when you have too small a swatch. Stitches may measure a little differently across a few stitches in one part of a swatch vs. another (just due to variations in hand-knitting tension, the nature of the yarn, etc.), so measuring over several inches will help average all of that out and give you a much more accurate measure. You should also bind off the swatch, not leave the stitches on your needle. This too will help you get a more accurate measurement. AND, you should knit a few inches of rows, so you can measure across a row in the middle that is not too close to your cast on or bind off edges, which can also affect your gauge.

AND even if you do all of the above, I would still recommend measuring your work after you have knit a few inches of the first piece (which is usually the back piece of a garment). At this point, if your expected width does not match your work, you can still unravel and not have lost too much time and effort! Believe me, after having made MANY garments that have been off just a few inches here and there, I take the time to check my gauge multiple times now to avoid painful rework or (worse!) the disappointment of a finished sweater this just doesn't fit as well as I'd like.

There is much more to say about gauge... more to follow in upcoming newsletters! Please email specific gauge questions to me at advice@sweaterbabe.com.

"Dear SweaterBabe.com, The pattern says, row 2 and all WS rows: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. What does that mean?" -- Susan H.

Dear Susan, "To knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts" means to work the stitches as they present themselves. For example, as you are about to work the next stitch, see if you are looking at a knit stitch (which looks like a "V") or a purl stitch (which has little horizontal bars that look like ripples). Then, do what you see by knitting any stitch that looks like a knit stitch and purling any that look like purls.

Here are some photos to illustrate what the knit stitches look like vs. the purl stitches:


The bottom half of this swatch shows the "Knit" side of the Stockinette stitch. The top half shows "Knit 2, purl 2" ribbing, so you can see how distinct the knit stitches look with their "V"-like look.	Here is the flip side of the swatch to the left. The bottom half of this swatch shows the "Purl" side of the Stockinette stitch, which can be thought of as little "bumps," "ridges," or "pearls." The top half shows "Knit 2, purl 2" ribbing, so you can see how the purl stitches appear next to the knit stitches (which seem to "pop" upwards).

This is an example of knitting the knit sts and purling the purl sts to maintain a stitch pattern (in this case, the "Knit 2, purl 2" ribbing). The next stitch on the left-hand needle to be worked is a knit stitch, therefore, you knit it.	The next stitch on the left-hand needle to be worked now is a purl stitch, therefore, you purl it.

If a pattern says "row 2 and all WS rows: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts," it is often that the complex part of the stitch pattern is only happening on the odd rows (all the RS rows), e.g. the yarn-over-ing, the skp's, etc. for a lace pattern; the cable or twist stitches for a textured pattern, etc.

"Dear SweaterBabe.com, I bought some gorgeous hand-spun yarn at a craft fair. How can I tell what gauge it is-- what needles to use, etc.? Thanks, " -- Lara F. from Silver Spring, MD

Dear Lara, When I find some beautiful yarn that does not have a yarn label with yarn weight information or a suggested gauge, I like to think of it as a great opportunity to play. That being said, my first step is to determine the weight category of the yarn.

Take a look at the yarn, compare it to the photo below, and determine its yarn weight category. If it is a yarn with thick and thin parts, use the thicker part as your guide to the yarn weight.

Then, refer to this table below to find the recommended knitting needle or crochet hook sizes.

Think of this recommended needle/hook size and average gauge as your starting point. Try a little swatch with the recommended needle or crochet hook size and see if you like it. OR, find a pattern using that needle or crochet hook size that has a gauge close to what's listed in the table above.

If you are using a pattern, it's best to do a gauge swatch using your mystery yarn and the pattern's recommended needle or crochet hook size and see if you can match the gauge. Adjust the needle or crochet hook size up (or down) if your gauge swatch is coming up with too many (or too few) stitches per the measurement given in the pattern.

If you are unsuccessful in matching the gauge, you will have to decide if you are willing to chance it and follow the pattern or perhaps it is better to find another pattern for the yarn. (For example, if you are making a blanket or scarf, a close-enough gauge can work fine, but if you want to make a sweater, you'll want to match the gauge exactly to ensure the sweater's finished measurements come out correctly.

TIP: Even if you think you've done a really careful job measuring your gauge swatch, it's still a great idea to measure the first piece (usually the back of the sweater) after you've done a few inches to make sure the width is what it's supposed to be. Better to rip it out at that point if need be then to realize your gauge was slightly off after you've knit all of the pieces!

In terms of yardage, you might be able to get a decent estimate by measuring out a few yards and weighing it. Then, weigh all of the balls you have and do the math to see how many total yards you have. Remember though that this is a rough estimation, so be careful if you are wanting to make a large project.

Here is an example of the math:

Let's say 10 yards = .2 oz.
If you have 22 oz. total of the yarn, 22 oz. x (10 yards/.2 oz.) = (22 x 10)/.2 = approximately 1100 total yards.

Another way you might be able to get a better estimate of yardage is to run the yarn through a yardage counter as you wind it onto a ball winder. Maybe your local yarn shop will allow you to use their if you are a regular customer.

[MORE on "mystery yarn" from our readers -- thanks for emailing them in!]
"Ask the person selling the yarn at the craft fair! If it was a handspun yarn, being sold by the artisan, they should be happy to answer questions for you about their work! Indeed, many artists and independent crafters love to talk about their work! Many times yarn is sold in skeins that were wound on a niddy noddy of a certain yardage-- the artisan might be able to count that up for you and tell you the yardage in a matter of seconds. We also know more about the wool that went into our work, dyes, etc... and might be able to give you tips on that, if you have a certain project in mind. Also, I know a lot of spinners and knitters who are a fountain of knowledge when it comes to pattern ideas-- not only where to get them, but also what type of garment looks most flattering on what body type/ etc." -- Jenny

"There is a method of wrapping yarn around something and finding out how many wraps in an inch there is and then comparing it to a sort of formula. I remember seeing this method but not quite what it was!" -- Steve

Yes, Steve, WPI is another way of determining the "weight" of a yarn. Basically, you wrap the yarn around a needle (a knitting needle), ruler, or a special gauge tool made for this purpose, then you count how many wraps you get along 1 inch (or better yet, along 3 inches, then divide that number by 3).

A quick search online pulled up some great sites that can give you more information on this method, which is more commonly used by spinners and weavers. Here is a really great page on measuring WPI: http://www.spindlicity.com/spring2006/wpi.shtml. The tips and photos on how to wrap in this article are great. I've added wpi's to the table above if you choose to use this method instead.

Whichever way you choose to determine your yarn weight, and whatever advice you can get on determining an ideal project for the yarn, be sure to do your gauge swatch carefully for the project. Even if you have the same basic weight of yarn to match a pattern, ultimately the gauge you achieve from your personal knitting (or crochet) tension and how closely it matches that stated in the pattern is what will ensure you the best fitting results. -- SweaterBabe

"Dear SweaterBabe.com, As a relatively new knitter, my biggest challenge is finding a yarn that matches the gauge on a pattern. My local yarn store says that all yarn labels provide a 4" gauge. I've noticed that not all patterns use a 4" guide. Can you tell me why?" -- Sondra of Berkeley, CA.

Dear Sondra, When I write a pattern, I am very picky about the gauge and try to be as exact as possible. Sometimes, when I measure the gauge, it just doesn't round nicely to a 4" measurement.

For example, if I get a gauge that is 10 sts = 3", I'd rather state it as 10 sts = 3" than put 13-1/3 sts = 4" just to keep to the 4" standard. It's all a matter of math. When finding a yarn to substitute for a particular pattern, you will be ok for a scarf or blanket if you get approximately the same gauge. But if you are making a fitted sweater, you will want to be sure to have an exact gauge for the proper fit.

When yarn labels state their gauge, interpret that as an average. It is YOUR gauge that is important to the end result, not what is on the label. You will always want to work up a swatch first to see if your gauge with that new yarn matches the gauge in the pattern. If you have more stitches in the X" than stated in the pattern gauge, swatch again with a smaller needle. If you have less stitches in the X" than stated in the pattern gauge, swatch again with a larger needle. If you are at the same number of stitches, you are good to go with your new yarn!

"Dear SweaterBabe, I just learned to knit and am ready to start a real project. What do you recommend?" -- Kim P. of Chicago, IL

Dear Kim, Congrats on learning to knit! There are lots of fun projects in store for you! I recommend you start with a scarf. It will give you the chance to practice your knitting and you'll end up with an item you can wear for fall and winter!

Just visit your local yarn shop (find one in my online shop directory) and find some yarn in a color that you love. Stick with the more basic yarns, like a good wool blend yarn. The fancy mohairs or other novelty yarns can be difficult to knit with. And pick a lighter color too, so you can see the stitches easily. Also, 100% cotton can be a little hard on the hands for the beginner since it has no elasticity and can exaggerate any unevenness in your stitches. If you still prefer cotton, choose a cotton blend with some acrylic.

Ask a salesperson to recommend the needle size appropriate for your yarn and the amount of yarn based on how big you'd like your scarf to be.

Be sure to buy enough yarn in the same dye lot to finish your scarf. Tip: always buy extra if in doubt and save your receipt! Most shops will let you return or exchange that extra ball later - ask if there is a time limit on when you can do this return or exchange.

The salesperson should also be able to recommend an approximate number of stitches if you tell them how wide (in inches) you like your scarves. Cast on, and then practice the knit stitch until you have the length you like! Good luck!

"Dear SweaterBabe, My friend and I just learned how to knit, and we went out and bought the longest needles we could find so we could make blankets. The problem is, we both cast on too many stitches and are now having problems fitting our rows onto one needle when we're knitting. What can we do to remedy this?" -- Krysten of Columbus, OH

Dear Krysten, the longest straight knitting needles out there are 14". Not really long enough for the width of a blanket. What you should do is use circular needles - the long 36" ones.