Understanding Armhole Shaping Instructions

January 23rd, 2008 at 09:56am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

I am knitting a cardigan and am working on the back piece from the bottom up. I am now starting to shape the armholes on both sides.

The instructions say to “Dec 1 st at the end of the next 3 rows, then on following 3 alternate rows, then on every following 4th row until 95 sts rem.” I understand the first 3 row decreases but what does “on following 3 alternate rows, then on every following 4th row” mean?

My interpretations skew all the decreases on one side which is not right. The decreases should be even on both sides. I would appreciate any help you can give.

Thank you. Emily W.

Dear Emily,

First, I actually think there is a typo.  Most patterns will say “Dec 1 st at EACH end of the next 3 rows” so that shaping is happening on both ARMHOLES at the same time.  If that is assumed, does it all work?

Assuming there is that typo, let me explain the rest. 

Let’s pretend your first armhole shaping row is Row 100.  This is what the instructions tell me to do:

“Dec 1 st at EACH end of the next 3 rows,…”:
Row 100: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 101: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 102: Dec 1 st at EACH end.

“then on following 3 alternate rows,…”:
Row 103: No decreasing.
Row 104: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 105: No decreasing.
Row 106: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 107: No decreasing.
Row 108: Dec 1 st at EACH end.

“then on every following 4th row until 95 sts rem.”:
Row 109: No decreasing.
Row 110: No decreasing.
Row 111: No decreasing.
Row 112: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 113: No decreasing.
Row 114: No decreasing.
Row 115: No decreasing.
Row 116: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
Row 117: No decreasing.
Row 118: No decreasing.
Row 119: No decreasing.
Row 120: Dec 1 st at EACH end.
… etc. until you have 95 sts left.  So, keep decreasing every 4th row (Row 124, 128, etc.) until you have 95 sts left.

I hope this then makes sense!  I’m pretty sure that the typo is part of the problem…

Best,

SweaterBabe

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

How to Begin Picking Up Stitches

January 23rd, 2008 at 08:53am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Hi SweaterBabe,

I have just finished he main body of a baby cardigan and now have to pick up the stitches to make a border. I understand how to pick the stitches up but how do I start? How do I join on the wool in the first place? Thanks for any help.

– Caroley

Dear Caroley,

To begin picking up stitches, there are 2 ways I can suggest.

You can make a slip knot with the yarn from your ball.  Then, use your knitting needle to pick up the first stitch by pulling the slip knot loop through the fabric.  This is then your first picked up stitch.

OR, you can skip the slip knot.  Just insert your knitting needle where you with the pick up the first stitch, wrap your yarn around the needle tip (as if you were knitting), and pull it through.  You are almost just hanging the yarn from the needle tip and holding it tight enough so the needle tip can get it through your fabric.

With this second method, the yarn will be loose (not anchored in any way).  Just keep picking up stitches and the tail that is left behind where you started is just another loose end that needs to be secured and woven in during the finishing step of the sweater.

Hope that explains it well enough!

Happy knitting.

SweaterBabe

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

What is Stocking Stitch and How Do You Do Reverse Shaping?

January 15th, 2008 at 11:39am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Here are two recent questions emailed to me.  The second one on “reverse shaping” applies to knitting as well as crochet. . .

Dear SweaterBabe,

I recently bought a booklet with patterns. Currently I am knitting mittens and they say to knit 4 inches of stocking stitches. What is a stocking stitch?

– Francois C.

Dear Francois,

I believe Stocking Stitch is the same as Stockinette Stitch.  So, it is just alternating knitting a row (on the Right side of your work) and purling a row (on the Wrong side of your work).

If you are working in the round, and the Right Side is ALWAYS facing you, then just knit every stitch on every row to get Stockinette Stitch.

– SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

Hello! Please explain reverse shaping! Thanks!

– JoAnn S

Dear JoAnn,

Yes, the dreaded “reverse shaping!”  When I see this in a pattern, I often cringe, even if just a little (because it means a little extra work for me!).

For example, if you just completed the LEFT FRONT of a cardigan, the instructions for the RIGHT FRONT may just simply say “Work as for LEFT FRONT, reversing all shaping.”

Yup, so now what??  Hopefully the shaping is not too complex. . .

First, I would hope (and strongly suggest!) that you keep good notes as you do the LEFT FRONT.  Jot down EXACTLY which row you did the first bind off or decrease for the armhole (for example).  Then, also jot down every row that you do any further decreasing or shaping for the armhole… Do this for any waist, neckline, shoulder, and any other shaping that is done in the pattern.

Then, when you do the RIGHT FRONT, you can easily refer to your notes and see that on Row X, you began shaping the armhole, then on Row Y you decreased some number of stitches at the armhole edge, etc.

To “Reverse Shaping”, you just do the same bind offs and decreases (or increases) at the same times, but on the other edge.  For example, the “armhole edge” on the LEFT FRONT is the beginning of the row when you are on the Right Side of your work.  The “armhole edge” on the RIGHT FRONT is at the END of the row when you are on the Right Side of your work. 

So, if the armhole shaping starts with some initial bind off (like bind off 3 sts)… and you did this on Row 50 (a Right Side Row) of your LEFT FRONT… then you would be doing this on Row 51 (A Wrong Side Row) of your RIGHT FRONT. 

Why?  Because this initial bind off is only done at the beginning of a row.  Staggering it by 1 row will not be noticable and this will mimic the “bind off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows” that most likely started the armhole shaping of your BACK piece.

Then, if you did a decrease on every row 3 times, then every other row 3 times to complete the armhole shaping, you can go ahead and do the same now for the RIGHT FRONT, but be sure to do these decreases at the armhole edge, which is now on the opposite edge (of what it was for the LEFT FRONT).

This “reverse shaping” instruction can also appear for shoulder shaping.  Same idea.  Just do the same shaping steps, but do it at the other edge of your work.

Hope that explains it well enough!  The key is really to keep good notes on the shaping as you go.

– SweaterBabe

Got a knitting or crochet question for SweaterBabe?  Please email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Please do NOT post it here, as I can only answer those emailed to the address above.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 2 comments

What is the difference between a yo and a ywf (yfwd)?

December 4th, 2007 at 01:16pm Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Hi SweaterBabe,

I know that you are based in the USA, but can to tell me why is it that the yo in your country is so different to saying ywf? What is the difference?  Can you explain, please?

– jean

Dear Jean,

I believe you ywf is the same here as yfwd or yarn forward.  By bringing the yarn forward and then knitting the next stitch, you create a yo (yarn over) on your right-hand needle that will be treated as a stitch on your next row (and create an eyelet for lace, generally).

If you need to create a yo right before purling a stitch, doing a yarn forward will not do it. The yarn needs to be forward (in front) in order to create the purl stitch.  IN THIS CASE, you would actually bring your yarn BACK (behind your work), then purl the next stitch and thereby create your yo (and your purled stitch).  

Because of this purl situation, yo is a more universal term that works when you need to follow your yo with a purl or a knit stitch.  The yarn forward instruction only works if the yarn forward is to be followed immediately with a knit stitch.

Hope that helps explain the difference!

Best,

SweaterBabe.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Picking up stitches for a knit border.

December 4th, 2007 at 08:52am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

I knit quite a lot of baby cardigans and I have a problem with picking up stitches for the border - if I use a small needle the border knits up tight and if I use the same needles as the main cardigan the border knits up very loose and flaired. What is the correct way to pick up stitches for a front border? Thank you in advance.

– Eloy

Dear Eloy,

I suspect that the issue you are having with picking up stitches for your border is also about the placement and distribution of the stitches you are picking up.

What I mean is, I think you may be picking up too few stitches along the edge (when you are getting the tight result) or too many along the edge (when you are seeing it too loose and flaired). 

First, I would decide which needle size to use based on how you like the border itself to look (nevermind how it attaches to the main piece, think of the border as its own knit fabric).  Is the smaller needle size giving you a nicer looking finished border and the same size needle giving you stitches that are just too loose and therefore a border that is too flimsy and looks sloppy?  If so, I would stick with the smaller needle size.

If you decide on the smaller needle size, I would then pick up MORE stitches along the border than you did the last time.  It seems like you may need a few more along the border edge to compensate for any tightness that might be due to you have a tighter tension or gauge than what the pattern is written for. 

Try adding some stitches and see what happens.  (Sorry, without seeing it, I can’t tell you how many more stitches to pick up for your example).  If it’s not quite right, try it again. I have often done and undone borders for just this reason.  Especially if the border curves in any way (for the bottom corners of a cardigan or for neck shaping), the right number of picked up stitches and how they are distributed can make a big difference between a nice looking border and a not so nice looking one.

Good luck and I hope I’ve answered your question!

Best,

SweaterBabe

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

2sctog versus 2 sc in next st.

November 15th, 2007 at 08:27am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe,

The instruction says ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’

What is the different between 2sctog and 2 sc in next st?  I’m not understanding if I should put 2sctog all the way to the end or is it telling me just at that st or continue doing sc after I do the 2sctog?  Need help.  Thank you.” — Robin

Dear Robin,

The instructions: ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’ mean this:

1 sc in the first st

Work the next 2 sts together by inserting hook in 1st, yo, pull loop through, inserting hook in 2nd st, yo, pull loop through, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.  A 2sctog is completed.

Now, the “work to within last 2 sts” sounds to me like “1 sc in next st and eash st across until you reach the last 2 sts.”

Now you have 2 sts left at the end of the row.  In the1st one, do an increase by working 2 separate sc’s into it.

The last st, you just do the 1 sc in last st as instructed.

I am assuming that this is a basic sc stitch fabric that you are making.  It’s not so clear from the snippet, but I think a safe assumption.

Hope that answers the question!  (I would have written it differently).

Best,

SweaterBabe

p.s. If you have other thoughts for Robin, please post a comment!

If you have a question on a DIFFERENT crochet or knitting topic, please do not post it here.  Email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected every other week or so to be answered here on the blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletter.  Sorry - I get way too many to answer them all!

 

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Keeping Track of a Complicated Pattern

November 15th, 2007 at 08:02am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe, I have never knit a ‘fitted’ sweater that requires increasing and decreasing stitches in a bodice that has a pattern.  What is the easiest way to keep track of the increases and decreases, so that the pattern is maintained? 

Also, do you know of a computer program that would help do this, e.g. a computer program that would “graph out” a pattern??  Thanks for your help.” – Ilona

Dear Ilona,

The main thing I do with any pattern that has multiple sizes, stitch patterns, shaping, or other complexity is to map it out by rows using paper and pencil.

Before that, I do recommend photocopying the pattern and then circling ALL of the instructions that apply for the size you are making.  For example, if you are making size Small and the instructions include Small (Medium, Large), then you will be finding all of the parts of the pattern that say things like: “K23 (25, 27)” or “For Size Small ONLY” and circling or highlighting the “23″ part (since you would ignore the “(25, 27) which are for the Medium and Large sizes) and the whole section under “For Size Small ONLY”.

Then, as I am beginning to follow the pattern, I write down EVERY Row number, starting from Row 1, and note what happens on Rows that have any increasing or decreasing or a change in stitch pattern.  I also note the number of stitches that I should have at the end of an increasing or decreasing Row. 

If there is a stitch pattern (cable, lace, intarsia, etc.) involved or multiple, I will note which Row of the stitch pattern(s) I am following for each project Row.  That way, I will always keep track of the total Rows for a piece, as well as which stitch pattern Row I am.

It seems tedious, but I do it for any pattern that is the least bit complicated.  It helps a lot too when you keep good track of the Back piece of a sweater because the Front piece(s) most likely will follow the same Rows and you can then be sure that your Back and Front(s) are the same length, i.e. number of Rows to the underarm, shoulder, etc.  Same with making sure the 1st sleeve matches the 2nd sleeve.

Now, if your question is also how to handle increases and decreases for shaping when the stitch pattern has increases and decreases (most lace stitch patterns do), then the answer is a bit more complicated. 

You basically do what you can of the stitch pattern, up to the point that you have to do the shaping increases or decreases.  For instance, if you are binding off stitches and doing decreases along a neck edge to shape the neckline, you may do an initial bind off that cuts right into your lace stitch pattern.  Do the bind off, as instructed, then resume the lace stitch pattern with the remaining stitches.  Double check how many stitches you are supposed to have after this bind off row. 

Sometimes, you may have to “adjust” the lace stitch and omit a decrease or increase to end up with the right number of stitches.  Hopefully, by the time you get to the neck shaping, you will have done the lace stitch pattern enough for the body of the piece that you are familiar with which decreases and increases within the structure of the lace stitch pattern are paired up to maintain the stitch count from row to row.  That way, when you can only do part of the lace stitch pattern, you can see which increase or decreases to skip or add to keep the stitch count correct through any shaping.

I’m afraid I can’t be much more specific about this last issue, as each stitch pattern can be so different.  The most important thing is to make sure the stitch count is correct.  A little weird increasing or decreasing (otherwise known as “fudging” at the edges is usually ok since there will be some finishing (like a picked up and knitted collar or edging) that will hide unsightly edges.

And lastly, I’m not aware of any programs that can map or graph out a pattern as you are suggesting.  There are definitely programs that can generate schmatics and graphs of patterns, but I imagine that by the time you learn these programs and enter in all the project information, you would have been just as well off writing out Rows as I do for projects.

Hope that helps!  Intermediate and Expert level projects are challenging in this way, but with a little extra attention to where you are in the pattern, the finished results will be very rewarding!

Best,

SweaterBabe

Have any other suggestions for Ilana, please post your comments!

If you have questions about OTHER topics, please don’t post them here.  Please email them to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected and answered here on the blog.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Understanding Knitting Stitch Pattern Repeats

September 25th, 2007 at 10:10am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Knitting Stitch Pattern repeats can be confusing to understand.  I’ve been getting lots of emails about understanding how to do these repeats when the stitch count seems to be off. 

Here is a specific example that will help!

Here are the first few rows of the Diamond Lace Stitch Pattern as it appears in the SweaterBabe.com pattern instructions for #70 Lush and Lacy Cardigan pattern: 

Diamond Lace
Worked over a multiple of 10 sts + 1.
Row 1 (WS and all other WS Rows): Purl.
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.

For the BACK, you are asked to work this Diamond Lace over the 21 stitches for the BACK Lace Panel. 

BUT, it seems like you need 22 stitches to get through the repeats on Row 2.

Here is why the 21 stitches is correct… it’s the ”ending last rep with k2” part. 

What does this last part mean???

Over your 21 sts, do this:
Row 2: K2, *k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; rep from *, ending last rep with k2.

Written out for the exact 21 sts, you are doing this:
Row 2: K2, k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k3; k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, skp, k2.

The italicized part in is the “last rep” of the part led by the *, so instead of ending it with the “k3;” you are “ending last rep with k2.”

OR, written out even more (removing the brackets and “2 times” wording and just writing it out):

Row 2: K2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k3;k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, k2.

This gives you the 21 sts.

Hope this clears it up! 

I realize that the “ending last rep with k2″ is new to those that have not seen this before.  It is used a lot in knitting and crochet instructions if just the last rep of the pattern is only different. 

These are the conventions that prevent written, published patterns from being really, really long.  Now that you have seen this, hopefully it will make sense the next time you encounter it!

Katherine

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 2 comments