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Customer’s Finished Project - the Lush and Lacy Cardigan

January 15th, 2008 at 11:00am Under Knitting and Crochet News+ Updates

Dear Katherine,Attached are some photos of myself wearing the sweater knitted from your pattern, which I loved doing!

It was great fun, in part because your instructions were extremely detailed & clear all the way. I knitted it in Merinos Otto “Shadow”, an extrafine merino.

Oddly, I needed only about 800 yards, although I got the gauge you suggested. Also - I ended up modifying the neckline in a couple of ways; it felt too loose & floppy knitted in the same needle size as the body of the sweater, & the decreases at the front looked too angled…….so I did it over in 2 needle sizes down, twice as many rows, with decreases on alternate rows rather than on every row. It came out fitting perfectly.

I would note that I have felt like a walking advertisement for your website. I have had at least half a dozen women ask me how to get this pattern; I also had one offer to buy my sweater on the spot (the answer was no, but thanks…..).

I look forward to knitting more of your designs.

Pamela Yu
knitter in Austin, TX

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 4 comments

Crochet Lace Jacket Pattern coming soon!

January 5th, 2008 at 08:26am Under Knitting and Crochet News+ Updates+ New Crochet Patterns

Here’s the latest project off of my crochet hook.  I’ve been wearing it out lately and getting so many great compliments.

It’s actually crocheted from the neck down since my latest obsession are seam-free patterns!  The top half is a pretty lacey shell stitch that has subtle differences that make it different from any basic shell stitch.  The lower half is a more open crochet lace for contrast.  The sleeves are 3/4 length with a slight flare at the cuffs.

The jacket is finished with GORGEOUS horn-like buttons with faux leather stitching on the front.  An assymmetrical closure gives this jacket a beautiful look buttoned-up.  Looks great open as well.  Coming soon….

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 20 comments

My Lace Knit Evening Gown is on Display!

January 4th, 2008 at 01:44pm Under Knitting and Crochet News+ Updates+ Yarn Store News

Visit the Knit Cafe here in Los Angeles and see my Lace Knit dress up close!

This is the Silk Evening Gown I designed and knit for Suzan’s Greetings from Knit Cafe book, which came out last year.  It’s a great book and I’m thrilled to have worked with Suzan as a contributor.

So, if you are in the area, go check it out, as well as Suzan’s beautiful, cozy shop.  The Knit Cafe is located at 8441 Melrose Ave., just East of La Cienega.  More on the Knit Cafe at: http://www.knitcafe.com/

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 4 comments

What’s Hot at Got Yarn.com.

December 15th, 2007 at 07:33am Under Yarn Store News

“Twinkle Soft Chunky is flying outta here! Especially kits for the coat in Vogue and the Cardigan in Interweave. Look here  http://www.gotyarn.com/results.cfm?SubCategory=317.”

Visit the Got Yarn online store at www.GotYarn.com or 888-242-4474.

Tell them SweaterBabe.com sent you!

If you are a Yarn Shop Owner, tell us your news using our easy online form.  We’ll include it in our blog and newsletter to 12,750+ knitters and crocheters!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 1 comment

What is the difference between a yo and a ywf (yfwd)?

December 4th, 2007 at 01:16pm Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Hi SweaterBabe,

I know that you are based in the USA, but can to tell me why is it that the yo in your country is so different to saying ywf? What is the difference?  Can you explain, please?

– jean

Dear Jean,

I believe you ywf is the same here as yfwd or yarn forward.  By bringing the yarn forward and then knitting the next stitch, you create a yo (yarn over) on your right-hand needle that will be treated as a stitch on your next row (and create an eyelet for lace, generally).

If you need to create a yo right before purling a stitch, doing a yarn forward will not do it. The yarn needs to be forward (in front) in order to create the purl stitch.  IN THIS CASE, you would actually bring your yarn BACK (behind your work), then purl the next stitch and thereby create your yo (and your purled stitch).  

Because of this purl situation, yo is a more universal term that works when you need to follow your yo with a purl or a knit stitch.  The yarn forward instruction only works if the yarn forward is to be followed immediately with a knit stitch.

Hope that helps explain the difference!

Best,

SweaterBabe.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Picking up stitches for a knit border.

December 4th, 2007 at 08:52am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

Dear SweaterBabe,

I knit quite a lot of baby cardigans and I have a problem with picking up stitches for the border - if I use a small needle the border knits up tight and if I use the same needles as the main cardigan the border knits up very loose and flaired. What is the correct way to pick up stitches for a front border? Thank you in advance.

– Eloy

Dear Eloy,

I suspect that the issue you are having with picking up stitches for your border is also about the placement and distribution of the stitches you are picking up.

What I mean is, I think you may be picking up too few stitches along the edge (when you are getting the tight result) or too many along the edge (when you are seeing it too loose and flaired). 

First, I would decide which needle size to use based on how you like the border itself to look (nevermind how it attaches to the main piece, think of the border as its own knit fabric).  Is the smaller needle size giving you a nicer looking finished border and the same size needle giving you stitches that are just too loose and therefore a border that is too flimsy and looks sloppy?  If so, I would stick with the smaller needle size.

If you decide on the smaller needle size, I would then pick up MORE stitches along the border than you did the last time.  It seems like you may need a few more along the border edge to compensate for any tightness that might be due to you have a tighter tension or gauge than what the pattern is written for. 

Try adding some stitches and see what happens.  (Sorry, without seeing it, I can’t tell you how many more stitches to pick up for your example).  If it’s not quite right, try it again. I have often done and undone borders for just this reason.  Especially if the border curves in any way (for the bottom corners of a cardigan or for neck shaping), the right number of picked up stitches and how they are distributed can make a big difference between a nice looking border and a not so nice looking one.

Good luck and I hope I’ve answered your question!

Best,

SweaterBabe

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

2sctog versus 2 sc in next st.

November 15th, 2007 at 08:27am Under Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe,

The instruction says ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’

What is the different between 2sctog and 2 sc in next st?  I’m not understanding if I should put 2sctog all the way to the end or is it telling me just at that st or continue doing sc after I do the 2sctog?  Need help.  Thank you.” — Robin

Dear Robin,

The instructions: ‘1 sc in first st, 2sctog, work to within last 2 sts, inc 1 st in next st, 1 sc in last sc.’ mean this:

1 sc in the first st

Work the next 2 sts together by inserting hook in 1st, yo, pull loop through, inserting hook in 2nd st, yo, pull loop through, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.  A 2sctog is completed.

Now, the “work to within last 2 sts” sounds to me like “1 sc in next st and eash st across until you reach the last 2 sts.”

Now you have 2 sts left at the end of the row.  In the1st one, do an increase by working 2 separate sc’s into it.

The last st, you just do the 1 sc in last st as instructed.

I am assuming that this is a basic sc stitch fabric that you are making.  It’s not so clear from the snippet, but I think a safe assumption.

Hope that answers the question!  (I would have written it differently).

Best,

SweaterBabe

p.s. If you have other thoughts for Robin, please post a comment!

If you have a question on a DIFFERENT crochet or knitting topic, please do not post it here.  Email it to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected every other week or so to be answered here on the blog and in the SweaterBabe.com newsletter.  Sorry - I get way too many to answer them all!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Keeping Track of a Complicated Pattern

November 15th, 2007 at 08:02am Under Knitting Questions and How to+ Crochet Questions and How to+ Ask SweaterBabe

“Dear SweaterBabe, I have never knit a ‘fitted’ sweater that requires increasing and decreasing stitches in a bodice that has a pattern.  What is the easiest way to keep track of the increases and decreases, so that the pattern is maintained? 

Also, do you know of a computer program that would help do this, e.g. a computer program that would “graph out” a pattern??  Thanks for your help.” – Ilona

Dear Ilona,

The main thing I do with any pattern that has multiple sizes, stitch patterns, shaping, or other complexity is to map it out by rows using paper and pencil.

Before that, I do recommend photocopying the pattern and then circling ALL of the instructions that apply for the size you are making.  For example, if you are making size Small and the instructions include Small (Medium, Large), then you will be finding all of the parts of the pattern that say things like: “K23 (25, 27)” or “For Size Small ONLY” and circling or highlighting the “23″ part (since you would ignore the “(25, 27) which are for the Medium and Large sizes) and the whole section under “For Size Small ONLY”.

Then, as I am beginning to follow the pattern, I write down EVERY Row number, starting from Row 1, and note what happens on Rows that have any increasing or decreasing or a change in stitch pattern.  I also note the number of stitches that I should have at the end of an increasing or decreasing Row. 

If there is a stitch pattern (cable, lace, intarsia, etc.) involved or multiple, I will note which Row of the stitch pattern(s) I am following for each project Row.  That way, I will always keep track of the total Rows for a piece, as well as which stitch pattern Row I am.

It seems tedious, but I do it for any pattern that is the least bit complicated.  It helps a lot too when you keep good track of the Back piece of a sweater because the Front piece(s) most likely will follow the same Rows and you can then be sure that your Back and Front(s) are the same length, i.e. number of Rows to the underarm, shoulder, etc.  Same with making sure the 1st sleeve matches the 2nd sleeve.

Now, if your question is also how to handle increases and decreases for shaping when the stitch pattern has increases and decreases (most lace stitch patterns do), then the answer is a bit more complicated. 

You basically do what you can of the stitch pattern, up to the point that you have to do the shaping increases or decreases.  For instance, if you are binding off stitches and doing decreases along a neck edge to shape the neckline, you may do an initial bind off that cuts right into your lace stitch pattern.  Do the bind off, as instructed, then resume the lace stitch pattern with the remaining stitches.  Double check how many stitches you are supposed to have after this bind off row. 

Sometimes, you may have to “adjust” the lace stitch and omit a decrease or increase to end up with the right number of stitches.  Hopefully, by the time you get to the neck shaping, you will have done the lace stitch pattern enough for the body of the piece that you are familiar with which decreases and increases within the structure of the lace stitch pattern are paired up to maintain the stitch count from row to row.  That way, when you can only do part of the lace stitch pattern, you can see which increase or decreases to skip or add to keep the stitch count correct through any shaping.

I’m afraid I can’t be much more specific about this last issue, as each stitch pattern can be so different.  The most important thing is to make sure the stitch count is correct.  A little weird increasing or decreasing (otherwise known as “fudging” at the edges is usually ok since there will be some finishing (like a picked up and knitted collar or edging) that will hide unsightly edges.

And lastly, I’m not aware of any programs that can map or graph out a pattern as you are suggesting.  There are definitely programs that can generate schmatics and graphs of patterns, but I imagine that by the time you learn these programs and enter in all the project information, you would have been just as well off writing out Rows as I do for projects.

Hope that helps!  Intermediate and Expert level projects are challenging in this way, but with a little extra attention to where you are in the pattern, the finished results will be very rewarding!

Best,

SweaterBabe

Have any other suggestions for Ilana, please post your comments!

If you have questions about OTHER topics, please don’t post them here.  Please email them to advice@sweaterbabe.com.  Questions are selected and answered here on the blog.

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment

Flower Striped Crochet Scarf Pattern Coming!

November 7th, 2007 at 12:37pm Under Knitting and Crochet News+ New Crochet Patterns

The pretty striped scarf pattern is coming soon! It’s a neat crochet stitch pattern that features the “flower” stripes alternating with a lacy background stripe.  The effect is unique and wonderfully textured.  Makes for a warm and truly striking scarf!

Pattern is coming soon!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe 6 comments

Cute Baby Photo in SweaterBabe.com’s Beautiful Cabled Baby Jacket!

November 7th, 2007 at 11:40am Under Cute Baby Photos

Here’s the latest Cute Baby Photo from a knitting mom:

“I wanted to thank you for the excellent cabled baby jacket pattern.  It was so easy to follow and resulted in a beautiful sweater.  I’ve made three already (one for my daughter and two more for friends)!  Attached is a picture of my daughter, Isha, wearing the sweater I made for her.  I used Bernat cottontots yarn as a substitute with size 9 needles.  My kids have very sensitive skin, so I needed a yarn that was 100% cotton.  It came out great, and is machine washable and dryable!  The extra small took less than two skeins (I had enough left over to knit the matching cabled hat).  A sweater and hat for $6 bucks!
 
Thanks again for the pattern!” — Neyha R.

Thanks Neyha!  Great photos of your lovely baby girl.  Wonderful to see the pattern done in a different yarn, giving it such a different look.  Here’s the original pattern in Debbie Bliss’ Cashmerino:

Do you have a Cute Baby Photo to share with us?  Please email it to info@sweaterbabe.com and don’t forget to include information on the knitting or crochet yarn, pattern, the baby, etc.!

By Katherine aka SweaterBabe Add comment