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Crochet
Tips & Tricks
PLEASE
NOTE: All NEW knitting and crochet advice can
now be found on the SweaterBabe.com
Blog.
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CROCHET
PATTERN READING
Pattern
reading for crochet can be tricky. My main piece
of advice is to make sure you follow every instruction
verbatim. Every word means something. Having
written many crochet patterns, I can tell you that a correctly written crochet instruction
can at first glance, be as technical-looking as
a computer program. But every pattern you follow will be
easier to read as you get accustomed to the lingo.
The first pattern you read will be the most
challenging, mostly because of the abbreviations.
For standard crochet abbreviations, please click
here.
Here are some handy translations:
| If
the pattern says... |
This
is what it means... |
|
Row 1: Sk 1st 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch... |
Not
counting the loop on your hook, count
the first 3 chain stitches (that you just
created with your hook for the base/foundation
chain). Skip those 3. In the next chain
(to the left if you are crocheting right-handed,
to the right if you are crocheting the
left-handed way), do a double crochet. |
|
1 dc in next and each ch to end, turn. |
Work
a double crochet in the next chain (to
the left if you are crocheting right-handed,
to the right if you are crocheting the
left-handed way), then do one double crochet
in each and every chain along the rest
of your base/foundation chain (not including
the slip knot at the very end). |
|
turn |
Flip
your work to begin the next row. If you
are crocheting right-handed, you can flip
your work by flipping the crochet like
you flip the page of a book. Then, you
would work the instructions for the next
row, proceeding from right to left. |
| ending
with last dc in top of t-ch |
After
you finish whatever instructions preceded
this instruction, you will work a double
crochet into the top-most chain of the
turning chain from the previous row. If
the previous row was all double crochets,
the turning chain is most likely the ch-2
or ch-3 that you did at the beginning
of the previous row. |
|
Ch a multiple of 3 plus 2 extra |
When
you encounter this, you are usually looking
at the instructions for a stitch pattern
(vs. a specific project) OR it is provided
at the beginning of the instructions for
a specific project. This is just telling
you that that particular stitch pattern
can be done for different widths of fabric.
In this example, you can use the stitch
pattern by making a base/foundation chain
of 3 + 2 = 5 chains, (3 x 2) + 2 = 8 chains,
(3 x 3) + 2 = 11 chains, ...., or (3 x
10) + 2 = 32 chains, etc. When this is
included in the instructions for a sweater,
it is bonus information, allowing you
to use the stitch pattern for something
else, as long as you have the correct
number of chains with which to start.
It ALSO helps you determine how long of
a base chain you need to make your GAUGE
swatch. |
|
(1 sc, 2 dc) in next st |
Work
the 1 single crochet AND 2 double crochets
ALL in the same next stitch, i.e. work
the 1st single crochet in the next stitch,
then stick your crochet hook in the same
stitch again to do the 2 individual double
crochets. Parentheses are the standard
way to indicate when a group of stitches
are to be worked into the same stitch
or space. |
| *1
sc in next st, ch 1; rep from * to end |
Work
whatever instructions are following the
* once, then, go back to the * and follow
the same set of instructions (i.e. the
"1 sc in next st, ch 1") over
and over until you have no more stitches
at the end of your row. |
| more
to come! |
|
Are
you finding these tips helpful? Please let
me know and ask
me
any other pattern instruction or crochet questions
you may have!
Keeping Track of Where You Are
Post-it
notes are a crocheter's best friend! I always
have some in my tool bag. I use them to mark
which row I need to do next on my pattern instructions.
As soon as a finish a row, I move the post-it.
As soon as the stickiness of the post-it is
in question, I grab a new one.
I also use them to jot down my hook size and
throw them into the bag holding my unfinished
object when I "borrow" the hook to
start yet another crochet project.
FINISHING
Making a Tassel
download
the step-by-step PDF instructions with photos
You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader installed
on your computer to view the PDF pattern.
To get a copy of Adobe Acrobat Reader for free,
just
click here.
Weaving
in Loose Ends
To weave in
loose ends, use a yarn tapestry needle (basically
just a big sewing needle that has an eye big
enough to fit yarn and a blunter tip), rather
than your crochet hook. You can find these needles
at yarn stores and craft stores. Or you can
use larger needlepoint or embroidery needles.
Ideally, you should leave at least 6" tails
whenever you cut your crochet thread or yarn
and when you start your base (foundation) chain.
The 6" length will you give you enough
to thread into the yarn tapestry needle and
hide the ends for a few inches (for the most
professional results).
Begin by threading the yarn into the tapestry
needle. Use the needle to bury your yarn inside
your crochet fabric to hide it. If you have
areas of solid single crochet, you can hide
your loose ends inside the middle of the single
crochet stitches, along the same direction as
a single crochet row. For other stitches, just
aim to hide the tails where you have the most
area to hide it, i.e. in the more solid areas
of your stitch pattern vs. the lacy areas. I
recommend you weave in your loose ends like
this for about 1-1/2 to 2". For most types
of yarn, this is sufficient. For slippery yarns,
like those with silk or rayon, you may want
to hide a longer portion of the tail and change
directions a few times to help "catch"
the tail and make it more secure. When you are
done weaving it in for a few inches, just snip
the remaning yarn off with scissors close to
your fabric.
Remember, the whole point of weaving in your
loose ends is to hide the unsightly ends and
make it very difficult for them to worm out
and cause any unraveling of your work. As an
avid crocheter, I am very careful to take the
extra time to carefully weave in my loose ends
- especially since most of my crochet work is
done for publications, customers, or for discerning
gift recipients!
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