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Crochet Tips & Tricks

PLEASE NOTE: All NEW knitting and crochet advice can now be found on the SweaterBabe.com Blog.
CROCHET PATTERN READING
Pattern reading for crochet can be tricky. My main piece of advice is to make sure you follow every instruction verbatim. Every word means something. Having written many crochet patterns, I can tell you that a correctly written crochet instruction can at first glance, be as technical-looking as a computer program. But every pattern you follow will be easier to read as you get accustomed to the lingo.

The first pattern you read will be the most challenging, mostly because of the abbreviations. For standard crochet abbreviations, please click here.

Here are some handy translations:
If the pattern says... This is what it means...
Row 1: Sk 1st 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch... Not counting the loop on your hook, count the first 3 chain stitches (that you just created with your hook for the base/foundation chain). Skip those 3. In the next chain (to the left if you are crocheting right-handed, to the right if you are crocheting the left-handed way), do a double crochet.
1 dc in next and each ch to end, turn. Work a double crochet in the next chain (to the left if you are crocheting right-handed, to the right if you are crocheting the left-handed way), then do one double crochet in each and every chain along the rest of your base/foundation chain (not including the slip knot at the very end).
turn Flip your work to begin the next row. If you are crocheting right-handed, you can flip your work by flipping the crochet like you flip the page of a book. Then, you would work the instructions for the next row, proceeding from right to left.
ending with last dc in top of t-ch After you finish whatever instructions preceded this instruction, you will work a double crochet into the top-most chain of the turning chain from the previous row. If the previous row was all double crochets, the turning chain is most likely the ch-2 or ch-3 that you did at the beginning of the previous row.
Ch a multiple of 3 plus 2 extra When you encounter this, you are usually looking at the instructions for a stitch pattern (vs. a specific project) OR it is provided at the beginning of the instructions for a specific project. This is just telling you that that particular stitch pattern can be done for different widths of fabric. In this example, you can use the stitch pattern by making a base/foundation chain of 3 + 2 = 5 chains, (3 x 2) + 2 = 8 chains, (3 x 3) + 2 = 11 chains, ...., or (3 x 10) + 2 = 32 chains, etc. When this is included in the instructions for a sweater, it is bonus information, allowing you to use the stitch pattern for something else, as long as you have the correct number of chains with which to start. It ALSO helps you determine how long of a base chain you need to make your GAUGE swatch.
(1 sc, 2 dc) in next st Work the 1 single crochet AND 2 double crochets ALL in the same next stitch, i.e. work the 1st single crochet in the next stitch, then stick your crochet hook in the same stitch again to do the 2 individual double crochets. Parentheses are the standard way to indicate when a group of stitches are to be worked into the same stitch or space.
*1 sc in next st, ch 1; rep from * to end Work whatever instructions are following the * once, then, go back to the * and follow the same set of instructions (i.e. the "1 sc in next st, ch 1") over and over until you have no more stitches at the end of your row.
more to come!  
Are you finding these tips helpful? Please let me know and ask me
any other pattern instruction or crochet questions you may have!


Keeping Track of Where You Are
Post-it notes are a crocheter's best friend! I always have some in my tool bag. I use them to mark which row I need to do next on my pattern instructions. As soon as a finish a row, I move the post-it. As soon as the stickiness of the post-it is in question, I grab a new one.

I also use them to jot down my hook size and throw them into the bag holding my unfinished object when I "borrow" the hook to start yet another crochet project.


FINISHING

Making a Tassel
download the step-by-step PDF instructions with photos


You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer to view the PDF pattern.
To get a copy of Adobe Acrobat Reader for free, just click here.


Weaving in Loose Ends
To weave in loose ends, use a yarn tapestry needle (basically just a big sewing needle that has an eye big enough to fit yarn and a blunter tip), rather than your crochet hook. You can find these needles at yarn stores and craft stores. Or you can use larger needlepoint or embroidery needles.

Ideally, you should leave at least 6" tails whenever you cut your crochet thread or yarn and when you start your base (foundation) chain. The 6" length will you give you enough to thread into the yarn tapestry needle and hide the ends for a few inches (for the most professional results).

Begin by threading the yarn into the tapestry needle. Use the needle to bury your yarn inside your crochet fabric to hide it. If you have areas of solid single crochet, you can hide your loose ends inside the middle of the single crochet stitches, along the same direction as a single crochet row. For other stitches, just aim to hide the tails where you have the most area to hide it, i.e. in the more solid areas of your stitch pattern vs. the lacy areas. I recommend you weave in your loose ends like this for about 1-1/2 to 2". For most types of yarn, this is sufficient. For slippery yarns, like those with silk or rayon, you may want to hide a longer portion of the tail and change directions a few times to help "catch" the tail and make it more secure. When you are done weaving it in for a few inches, just snip the remaning yarn off with scissors close to your fabric.

Remember, the whole point of weaving in your loose ends is to hide the unsightly ends and make it very difficult for them to worm out and cause any unraveling of your work. As an avid crocheter, I am very careful to take the extra time to carefully weave in my loose ends - especially since most of my crochet work is done for publications, customers, or for discerning gift recipients!



   
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